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Make me a shoe

Glimpsing Matt Unterfranz walking down the street, you could get a false impression of the Indiana University senior. Head down, eyes darting from side to side, he might appear to be shy or lacking in self confidence. But the averted gaze has a far different purpose from shielding a fragile ego: "I'm always looking at people's shoes," he explained.

Unterfranz, who is pursuing a major in Apparel Merchandising and a certificate in Fashion Design, has a clear ambition: to design athletic shoes that will be coveted by fashion-conscious men across the globe.

"I want to make an iconic shoe," he said. "When I'm gone, I want to be remembered for my impact on the sneaker world."

Unterfranz

Matt Unterfranz hopes to design athletic footwear after earning a degree in Apparel Merchandising and a certificate in Fashion Design from IU.

Print-Quality Photo

Unterfranz remembers growing up in northwest Indiana, near Chicago, and idolizing basketball legend Michael Jordan. Like many boys his age, he aspired not only to Jordan's skills but also to his fashion sense. "What he has done for footwear is ridiculous," Unterfranz said in admiration. "When you watch him play, you want the shoes he has on."

The IU student's interest in shoes probably began even before he followed basketball, as he was born with unusually high arches that he described as "broken architecture in my feet." He had to wear casts at first and, later, "shoes that looked like I was wearing the right on the left foot and the left on the right."

When he describes what distinguishes shoes from other fashion items, it's clear he has a personal appreciation for the functional importance of footwear. "It's so much different from any other article of clothing," he said. "There's a balance of performance and aesthetics -- there's really not a lot of performance to your shirt, but you're going to be miserable if you walk around in shoes that don't perform well."

His design ambitions were initially prompted by an art project during his senior year in high school. "I've always been into art, always drawn. One day in class the teacher had us draw our own shoes. I really liked doing it," he said. He's been unable to stop sketching sneakers ever since.

"I love drawing, I love design, I love the idea of 'art you get to wear,'" he said. "And it is art -- why buy a painting when you can buy a pair of shoes?"

Having discovered the Apparel Merchandising program at IU, Unterfranz realized he could turn his passion into a profession. Although the curriculum has presented a number of challenges for him, it has deepened his appreciation of the field.

"I had never touched a sewing machine before in my entire life," he said. "I had to make a high-collared women's coat, and it was not very good. I made a men's shirt and the collar was crooked. I got very frustrated with sewing. But now I respect fashion a lot more."

Unfortunately, unlike most fashion students, Unterfranz is not able to construct prototypes from his designs. Shoe components, at least in the style of his interest, require factory fabrication.

For now, he's focused on developing detailed and innovative plans -- one of his recent designs he described as an "eco-shoe" made from recycled and organic materials -- and staying attuned to the industry by working at Footlocker and monitoring the popular online sneaker blog sneakerfiles.com.

This summer, as he prepares for his senior year, he is completing his portfolio in anticipation of applying to top-level companies. He has his sights on Portland, Ore., where Nike and Adidas both have corporate locations.

"I'll be looking for an entry-level position, like working with tongue issues, or researching trends and patterns," he said.

When he thinks of his future, he inevitably looks to his past, conjuring up his boyhood hero.

"My dream would be to work for Jordan," he said, referring to the division of Nike that collaborates with the sports star. "He has changed shoes so much. He's a classy guy. There's so much weight put on his shoes -- all his shoes go down in history."